Best way to mount a rear ARB?
#1
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
Best way to mount a rear ARB?
I'm going to be fitting up my rear ARB on the weekend but want to know what way would be best to mount it.
I know that when the car is on its wheels it's needs to be straight and have full travel through the wheel travel, but which of these ways would be best to mount it to the tie bar?
I thought of two possible ways,
Mount it to a set of sliding clamps which the link would connect to and have it on the side of the bars like so,
The sliders would be made from steel tube with a slit cut into them and tabs welded to each side of the slit with a bolt going through, clamping the slider to the tie arm. Then, a threaded adaptor for the link to connect to in the middle.
Or mount it right at the end sharing the same bolt as the tie bar. The bolt would be an M12 12.9, but would there be too much load in the area? (Obviously with the bolt going the other direction)
These are the only two ways I can think of mounting it and keeping the bars in situ adjustable without totally remaking them.
I know that when the car is on its wheels it's needs to be straight and have full travel through the wheel travel, but which of these ways would be best to mount it to the tie bar?
I thought of two possible ways,
Mount it to a set of sliding clamps which the link would connect to and have it on the side of the bars like so,
The sliders would be made from steel tube with a slit cut into them and tabs welded to each side of the slit with a bolt going through, clamping the slider to the tie arm. Then, a threaded adaptor for the link to connect to in the middle.
Or mount it right at the end sharing the same bolt as the tie bar. The bolt would be an M12 12.9, but would there be too much load in the area? (Obviously with the bolt going the other direction)
These are the only two ways I can think of mounting it and keeping the bars in situ adjustable without totally remaking them.
#4
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
Due to the shape of the ARB it has to connect to the rear tie bar. I don't want to mess with the bar itself too much due to it scarcity.
#5
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
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This is something that I have been thinking about a fair bit lately, I have the same rear arb and rear arms (albeit mef ones) .
All going onto my s2
. Initial idea was a set of sliding clamps as per the front set up.although I can't see why mounting turnbuckles on the end would be a problem as long the arb doesn't hang to low????
How much messing About did you have to do to get the bar to fit around fuel tank? Have seen a few later 16i's withtheinlet bigger tank have the rear arb fitted.
Cheers
All going onto my s2
. Initial idea was a set of sliding clamps as per the front set up.although I can't see why mounting turnbuckles on the end would be a problem as long the arb doesn't hang to low????
How much messing About did you have to do to get the bar to fit around fuel tank? Have seen a few later 16i's withtheinlet bigger tank have the rear arb fitted.
Cheers
#6
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
The roll bar and mounts all need moving lower and new holes drilled then it just clears. There's pics in my resto thread.
The turnbuckles will need shortening to mount at the end, so I'll chuck them on the lathe if needs be.
The turnbuckles will need shortening to mount at the end, so I'll chuck them on the lathe if needs be.
#7
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Cheers muz! That's great mate.
So are you leaning towards drop links on the end linking to the tie bar??
I may go the other route, but still very much undecided at the mo. won't be fitting it all for a couple of weeks yet though
So are you leaning towards drop links on the end linking to the tie bar??
I may go the other route, but still very much undecided at the mo. won't be fitting it all for a couple of weeks yet though
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#8
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
Yeah, I think I'm going to look this weekend about mounting it to the hub/cone link itself by welding a bracket directly to the con link. It can only help having the roll bar closer to the hub.
#9
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That's what's been bugging me. Adjusting by sliding the clamp.along the bars would be great but will naturally have less leave rage at this point.
Whereas mounting on the end and adjusting via turnbuckles will make the greatest use of the arb
If that makes sense?
How short do you think you can make the turnbuckle?
Whereas mounting on the end and adjusting via turnbuckles will make the greatest use of the arb
If that makes sense?
How short do you think you can make the turnbuckle?
#10
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
Centre to centre, at their shortest they measure 145mm. That's a turnbuckle with a link with lock nut either end. The shank on the joints measure 40mm so, I think they could safely be shortened around 20mm and the half nuts machines slightly, but no more than this. So each turnbuckle would measure 105mm ish.
If this is still too long then one of the male rose joints could be replaced with a female joint and they could screw together, but this might leave them too short. Without measuring I can't say what will fit.
If this is still too long then one of the male rose joints could be replaced with a female joint and they could screw together, but this might leave them too short. Without measuring I can't say what will fit.
#11
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Yeh a male and female joint sounds good to me. Think that's going to be a better length but like you say won't know until its I front of you
I'll keep my eyes on this and your resto!!
I'll keep my eyes on this and your resto!!
#12
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
The length of a male joint from the end of the shank to centre bore is 62mm and for the female joint 54mm. Allowing a maximum length of 106mm (based on 10mm of thread engagement and a minimum length of 89mm. The joints could be shortened though to give a slightly shorter length, I guess.
Last edited by muz; 06-03-2014 at 04:31 PM.
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