studabear

Is that a custom oil return hose or is it the old cvh rocker cover to rear breather hose?

16vzetec

The water pump is straight on mine to go through the mk5 escort power steering/ alternator bracket. anything other than that wont fit through the hole

CrOwSoN15

What's the inlet off? Is it the standard plastic one?

I'm doing a cheap ZT in a KA so space is an issue, unsure on what inlet to use!

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

The 'lump' as a whole isn't the same no, different head, pistons/rods but the block and sump are the same.
As I said above the dipstick tube needs bending gently as it's the wrong shape to work with a RST manifold.
Just an old bit of Samco I had laying around mate.
Yup, again as I said above it's a stock Mondeo black top plastic one, same as the FRS.

rs milesy

Karlos did you use/fit the CVH oil cooler ? if not are you using another oil cooler ? just wondering as I haven't got my ZT engine fitted in the engine bay in my S1.
Thanks

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

I didn't but only because I hadn't got the extra piping needed, then never got round to it! lol Both oil and water temps are fine though.

studabear

the st170 engine I purchased came with a cooler fitted.

A note to add if anybody is doing this conversion and is struggling to get hold of the head gasket from ford (currently on back order) Burton power stock a 1.5mm cometic gasket.

studabear

Has anybody got a picture of where you have fitted the rear breather port? in relation to drive shaft position etc??

Cheers
Stu

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Mine was fitted exactly opposite the oil return on the front of the sump.

studabear

Cheers dude, mines making good progress now.

rs milesy

Karlos

Where did you pipe the second pipe from the heater box to, as one is connected to the thermostat housing ?
Thanks

studabear

either to oil cooler or do away with the erst Y piece and join to small pipe linked to bottom hose. Thats how I figure anyway.

Mines getting fitted tomorrow.

luke19790_3

How is the car going now? What boost are you running

rs milesy

studabear, no room for the oil cooler on the oil filter like the cvh, looks like I wil be sorting out a new bottom hose as the outlet from the water pump is way bigger than cvh one, just hoping it is a 1800 water pump so that no messing with idler pulleys, as the engine is in at last.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Exactly.
There's plenty of room mate! My oil cooler is fitted and a sandwich plate for oil pressure and temp gauge take off's too! lol

studabear

What water pump/engine are you using? I've just popped in my garage, the cvh water pump connection is fractionally smaller, the erst bottom hose will easily push onto the black top water pump outlet.

rs milesy

studabear
Mine is a silvertop fitted with C20let pistons, bought the engine already built from GMMS off here last year came with water pump already fitted along with the alt running off the bottom pulley,That is what makes me think/hope it is a 18 waterpump, the engine is fitted in my series 1.

studabear

Ah that clears up the confusion.

LHD220Turbo

iTrader: (4)

credit to you, looks a cost effective conversion which is easily achievable if you are handy with a set of spanners & got the motivation

studabear

When I said I was on it, I wasn't messing, with help from this guide I now have.



I have done a few things differently, but the guide got me in the right direction.

Just awaiting mapping now.

rsmark86

iTrader: (3)

i already had a zetec turbo but followed the route of blacktop zetec inlet now, saves so much space conpaired to the rs1800 one

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Excellent work Stu!
What did you do differently mate? Be good to see other alternatives.

studabear

I used a s2 alt bracket and alternator lowering bracket, this then clears the anti roll bar plate and the alternator heatshield can be retained. The s2 alt bracket does need a bit grinding away where the adjuster bracket attaches, or it fouls the sump putting the alternator on the piss, difficult to see on the car.

I used a silvertop rocker cover and added an additional breather port to this allowing the erst bailey breather to be plumbed in as per the cvh set up.

I fitted temp gauge sender in the top hose as I wasn't sure what size to drill the head for a tapered tap and I didn't fancy messing up a brand new head. The adapter is about Ł10 on ebay.

I had to use a cometic 1.5mm head gasket as if I was still waiting for the 1.8mm gasket from ford I would prob still have a engine on a stand lol

I had to have the exhaust front pipe made a bit longer as with the zetec in the centre section was not sliding over the front enough so when clamped up its wasn't holding properly. (big thanks to crazycage for the help with this)

I've also had to trim a bit of the ledge near the timing belt tensioner as when i fitted the vibratechnics gearbox mounts it made the clearance even tighter, so a dremmel sorted that. (note don't be lazy like me and remove the tensioner and belt prior to going in with the dremmel, saves replacing a brand new tensioner when the dremmel slips )

I've also managed to get the cast timing belt cover in after giving it a bit of a trim, the upper plastic section still needs a bit of work.

I also cut the s2 bottom hose down, added a joiner and a cut down 45 degree hose with a self sealing hose take off upto the header tank in order to get a nicer route for the hose.

Thats the main bits off the top of my head.

The guide certainly helped get me going, its nice not hearing the cvh rattle when its idling now.

Rsturbowayne

Don't understand a word you put mate,lol
But sounds like my car is with someone who knows his bis

rsmark86

iTrader: (3)

be carefull with the bottom water hose with a joiner in, i was flat out in mine with a bottom hose like yours and it blew off and cooked my headgasket......, it needed swaged ends to hold the hose on the metal joiner

but i phoned rouse motorsport and they sell conversion hoses off the shelf, but i would ask for just the bottom one as the top one isnt needed if you keep the cvh thermostat housing....

just my experience it cost me a topend rebuild from not changing the hose but i did get to uprate the valve springs and headset while it was off

studabear

Cheers for the heads up dude, luckily every joiner I've used has a swaged end.

I had seen conversion hoses with roose for silvertop conversions, if a blacktop hose was available I would defo be after one.

The other option is when my car comes off the rd for the winter I could send my hose to be copied so that it is then all 1 hose.

JayCC

So, first things first, where can I get a cheap and decent engine stand!

I have no problems with the engine stuff, but the wiring is gonna freak me out

studabear

cj auto's are quite good priced on the engine stands or ebay.

I would sell mine but I may need it again 1 day.

zetecbeast

machine mart do a couple of good ones for good prices..

rsmark86

iTrader: (3)

i would bud, its piece of mind and it looks smart too

i was gutted when mine let go but then i thought i would uprate a few things and its got out of hand again lol

now fitted
cossie turbo, down pipe with external waste gate and screamer pipe
blacktop inlet
frs gaskets and plugs
blacktop inlet with vxr injectors
gotech mfi pro
airtec stage 2 rad and twin fans
wilwoods
pro race 2's in white
vibratechnics
devil developments valve springs
ect ect

and still need to do a pedal mod, uprated fuel pump, better breather so need to mod the rocker cover, remake the screamer as its hitting the alternator, mod the bit like you need the tensioner ect ect

primedog

so if you do the mtx box conversion which flywheel n clutch do you use? also is the a lsd that can be dropped in???

also if you keep the standard zetec thermostat housing and put a cvh sender in (earthed) then use the top hose off a mk5 with a cvh fan switch in ..... do you only need to have another temp sender put in for the sake of the management??

defo goin this route but need to determine wht gearbox im going to use - mtx ideally.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

I imagine you use a FRS clutch and flywheel, Quaife to a LSD.
Yes that is correct, management needs a two wire temp sensor for accurate readings.

rsmark86

iTrader: (3)

Just use a frs mk1 gearbox, comes with quaife as standard and is already hydro clutch to work nicely with the frs standard clutch which is AP racing as standard

benw15

I have a mk3 1.8 16v xr2i 1993 would this guide still apply? And what would be a rough cost for this whole conversion ?

primedog

yea think im gonna go frs box n clutch, also i think a normal zetec flywheel works fine so thats handy. need to mount it, drive shaft it and hydraulic conversion it.... also what do people do for speedo sensor??

rsmark86

iTrader: (3)

not sure on the sensor but have seen it done, best way about it

rsmark86

iTrader: (3)

same but you need to incorprate the whole lot as you are none turbo, and things like fuel pump, gearbox, mounts, brakes and suspension, intercooler, hoses, uprated rad and so on

the management will be your biggest cost

i think a few grand would get you everything and running and mapped

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Also being a 1993 Zetec it will be a silver top.

colins2

what turbo and and how much boost are you running to acheve 300. Also what year of KA does the stronger gearbox come in.
Thanks
Colin

CrOwSoN15

A stage 3 T3 will hit 300bhp, but will be running out of puff.