Bleeding the Metering head!!
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Bleeding the Metering head!!
Does anyone know how to bleed the metering head? Cant get fuel to the injectors and I've just put a new metering head on. Cant for the life of me get fuel out of the 4 little holes for the injectors.
If I hold the flap open and have the ignition on with the fuel pump bridged I still get nothing.
Ive stripped it down numerous times, the plunger in free, there is enough fuel to MH! It feels like I've tried everything.
Can anyone suggest a way to get fuel through the metering head manually? Would a vacuum bleeder work?
I will try anything at this stage!! Cheers marco
If I hold the flap open and have the ignition on with the fuel pump bridged I still get nothing.
Ive stripped it down numerous times, the plunger in free, there is enough fuel to MH! It feels like I've tried everything.
Can anyone suggest a way to get fuel through the metering head manually? Would a vacuum bleeder work?
I will try anything at this stage!! Cheers marco
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Yeah I changed the whole unit, tried every combo with the black sensors on either side. Tried unplugging them while cranking it etc etc
Just no fuel to the injector pipes!
Just no fuel to the injector pipes!
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It has been stood for a long time. The plunger in the metering head was stuck and it couldnt be freed up so got a new one.
I have found an earth wire off on the driver's side of the engine. Could that have something to do with it? I was fuming when I find it because it has been hidden since I got it and I assumed it was attached to something!!
Thanks for the replies.
I have found an earth wire off on the driver's side of the engine. Could that have something to do with it? I was fuming when I find it because it has been hidden since I got it and I assumed it was attached to something!!
Thanks for the replies.
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#8
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if fuel is to the top meterhead nuts hold the flap down to allow fuel thru (its like a tap/cistern)
the injectors are basically a tube so if fuel goes thru to the injector lines it will get to the head
i find putting something into the flap to hold it very slightly open when trying to start it helps but dont let it go thru into the turbo
i use a rag but must be a thin but holding the flap slightly open
the injectors are basically a tube so if fuel goes thru to the injector lines it will get to the head
i find putting something into the flap to hold it very slightly open when trying to start it helps but dont let it go thru into the turbo
i use a rag but must be a thin but holding the flap slightly open
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Im getting closer, getting a bit of pressure past the metering head. I disconnected the little black 2pin plug on the side and it seemed to get pressure.
I am going to have to let the starter motor cool down because it is getting slower and slower despite having a battery charger on full whack.
I am going to have to let the starter motor cool down because it is getting slower and slower despite having a battery charger on full whack.
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Any joy getting yours to work. I am having the exact same problem with my rs. The system is pressurised and fuel is getting into the metering unit just not getting to the injector part?
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I am not having any joy getting it going! I've stripped my immobiliser off in an attempt to whether it was interfering but it wasnt.
I'm towing it to a garage tomorrow and they are going to try and get it going.
I'm towing it to a garage tomorrow and they are going to try and get it going.
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New fuel ecu on and no different. Someone has suggested the fuel accumulator. So I might get rid of it, depends how much it is from ford though.
#14
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If fuel is getting to the metering unit then anything before it obviously isn't at fault (in the grand scheme of things). So replacing accumulators is a waste of time. All you can is keep cranking and manually moving the flap. This will help push the air out of the injector lines and eventually it will fire. The mfi system doesn't rely on much more than the fuel pump to actually 'push' fuel to the injectors
#15
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I would try changing the regulator if u haven't already. (barrel shaped 2 the left of the metering unit) I had a similar fault but mines would kick over using the cold start injector. Changed the regulator nd been fine ever since.
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Does the regulator mount on the same bracket as the metering head? I got a new one of them with 2 braided hoses on with my metering head.
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Right have 1 bar fuel pressure at the filter. I am going to order a new accumulator tomorrow.
It has been suggested loads of times so I am going to bite the bullet.
It has been suggested loads of times so I am going to bite the bullet.
#20
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Check fuel pressure before the accumulator!! If its massively different (as in 5bar) then u know its the accumulator. If its not massively different its the pump
#21
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The accumulator is only a diaphragm. I don't see how it could lose 4 bar+ system pressure unless its pissing out of it. Imagine you would have noticed that tho
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Rigged up a jerry can and a fuel pump that works and it started first time and ran with ease...
It has had a brand new pump on it! I am going to try a different pump on it tomorrow but if that does not sort it then it's fairly conclusive its the accumulator. It's 22 years old and has had the same fuel in it for the last 6 years!
It has had a brand new pump on it! I am going to try a different pump on it tomorrow but if that does not sort it then it's fairly conclusive its the accumulator. It's 22 years old and has had the same fuel in it for the last 6 years!
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Got another fuel pump to try. If anyone else is suffering from not being able to bleed the metering head. Ive searched high and low to find a cure for this and no-one has had a conclusive answer.
Check fuel pressure, even if it looks like it has pressure it probably isn't enough.
Check fuel pressure, even if it looks like it has pressure it probably isn't enough.
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Dont know if this will work but any time you change a fuel filter you have to bleed the metering unit or it wont start. To do this i always crack each fuel banjo on the metering head slightly with a rag over the fitting and that always works for me.
#26
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According to Bosch, K- and KE-Jetronic don't need bleeding. But when you install a new fuel filter (which is quite big in these cars) it takes some time before the system works as it should.
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I put the pressure tester straight onto the pump and all it could achieve was 0.5 bar of pressure. The wiring to the pump is shagged or the fuel coming out of the tank is no flowing well enough. I'm dropping the tank off this weekend.
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I am having the same problem and it's doing my head in. I just can't get the fuel to the injectors but gets to the metering unit no problem. Just spent 200 notes on a new pump thinking it was a pressure issue but still no joy. A mechanic friend of mine said it could be a valve issue you need good compression in order for it to pull fuel to the injectors. Not sure how true this is tho. Seriously running out of ideas.
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It is something to do with fuel pressure. Rig up your old pump with a battery and the fuel pump with a pipe into a jerry can. I can guarentee it will run.
I have just dropped the tank off mine tonight. Its full of shit. The pipe which goes to the fuel pump wont flow what so ever.
The fuel pump won't get pressure if it cant get fuel.
When you have 5.5 bar of pressure it's a piece of piss to bleed the metering head.
There is more to it then you can see. I've been scratching my head for the last 2 weeks straight!
I have just dropped the tank off mine tonight. Its full of shit. The pipe which goes to the fuel pump wont flow what so ever.
The fuel pump won't get pressure if it cant get fuel.
When you have 5.5 bar of pressure it's a piece of piss to bleed the metering head.
There is more to it then you can see. I've been scratching my head for the last 2 weeks straight!
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Actually I have already cut the pipe that goes from the bottom of the fuel filter to the metering head. If you have some fuel pipe that is the correct diameter then cut the red plastic off and jubilee clip each end
When you have done this disconnect the metering head end and attach the pipe from your fuel pump to it. If you need a banjo to attach to the fuel pump use the other end of the pipe you made.
Put the wires off the fuel pump to the battery and then attach the pump to feed the metering head directly with the other end in the jerry can.
Now try and start it, it should run. If it doesn't there is an issue with your metering head.
If this makes no sense it's because it's too early and I've sent from my iphone
When you have done this disconnect the metering head end and attach the pipe from your fuel pump to it. If you need a banjo to attach to the fuel pump use the other end of the pipe you made.
Put the wires off the fuel pump to the battery and then attach the pump to feed the metering head directly with the other end in the jerry can.
Now try and start it, it should run. If it doesn't there is an issue with your metering head.
If this makes no sense it's because it's too early and I've sent from my iphone
#33
Never heard of anyone bleeding a metering unit I've seen many cars start on metering units that have been on a shelf for many years no problem, obviously when changing the filter it needs to be filled with fuel from bone dry but at worst the car will take a little shile to start and might have a cough and splutter for another minute until it is all full, but you definitely have something along the line broken.
#34
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As I mentioned above, K-Jetronic metering heads don't need bleeding. The system is designed for self-bleeding when building up fuel pressure.
My advice: Get a pressure test equipment and check the fuel pressures. You should find the pressure and the procedure in a Ford workshop manual.
My advice: Get a pressure test equipment and check the fuel pressures. You should find the pressure and the procedure in a Ford workshop manual.
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As I mentioned above, K-Jetronic metering heads don't need bleeding. The system is designed for self-bleeding when building up fuel pressure.
My advice: Get a pressure test equipment and check the fuel pressures. You should find the pressure and the procedure in a Ford workshop manual.
My advice: Get a pressure test equipment and check the fuel pressures. You should find the pressure and the procedure in a Ford workshop manual.
#39
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They don't need bleeding, from memory they run at approx 5.5bar and that is plenty to inject the air directly out of the system via injectors.
What you need to do here is measure fuel pressure at the metering head itself, using the outlet for the cold start injector.
If there is no pressure here, then work backwards until you find out why.
What you need to do here is measure fuel pressure at the metering head itself, using the outlet for the cold start injector.
If there is no pressure here, then work backwards until you find out why.
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They don't need bleeding, from memory they run at approx 5.5bar and that is plenty to inject the air directly out of the system via injectors.
What you need to do here is measure fuel pressure at the metering head itself, using the outlet for the cold start injector.
If there is no pressure here, then work backwards until you find out why.
What you need to do here is measure fuel pressure at the metering head itself, using the outlet for the cold start injector.
If there is no pressure here, then work backwards until you find out why.