"RST Recommended Oil's"
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"RST Recommended Oil's"
thinking this should be a sticky
this has been coming up loads now.
best oil for a escort rs turbo cvh.
on a new rebuilt engine it should be basic mineral oil for running in with.
after run in i would be useing this if it was a standard engine and un chipped.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60217-mi...ngine-oil.aspx
10w-40 Full Synthetic Engine Oil
if modifed 170-200 bhp i would be useing this ( as karlos said good for most rst engines for all power levels)
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60235-mi...ngine-oil.aspx
10w-50 Competition Full Synthetic Engine Oil
anything over that i would not be knowing
some stats off oil man
"It is a fact that around 90% of all engine wear occurs on cold start because the oil is at its thickest. The colder it gets the thicker the oil becomes and this affects the rate of flow which affects the rate of wear.
These numbers help to explain the oils thickness and therefore cold flow performance at various temperatures.
Grade.................At 0C.................At 10C..............At 100C
0W/20.............328.6cSt...............180.8cSt.... ........9cSt
5W/40.............811.4cSt...............421.4cSt.... ........14cSt
10W/50............1039cSt...............538.9cSt...... ......18cSt
15W/50.............1376cSt..............674.7cSt...... ......18cSt
20W/50.............2305cSt...............1015cSt...... ......18cSt
Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the thicker the oil. "
put this from looking at alot off post on here and think these are the best oil thickness to use. but like every one has said its a personal thing.
hope this helps and if you want me to add anything just comment
joe
this has been coming up loads now.
best oil for a escort rs turbo cvh.
on a new rebuilt engine it should be basic mineral oil for running in with.
after run in i would be useing this if it was a standard engine and un chipped.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60217-mi...ngine-oil.aspx
10w-40 Full Synthetic Engine Oil
if modifed 170-200 bhp i would be useing this ( as karlos said good for most rst engines for all power levels)
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60235-mi...ngine-oil.aspx
10w-50 Competition Full Synthetic Engine Oil
anything over that i would not be knowing
some stats off oil man
"It is a fact that around 90% of all engine wear occurs on cold start because the oil is at its thickest. The colder it gets the thicker the oil becomes and this affects the rate of flow which affects the rate of wear.
These numbers help to explain the oils thickness and therefore cold flow performance at various temperatures.
Grade.................At 0C.................At 10C..............At 100C
0W/20.............328.6cSt...............180.8cSt.... ........9cSt
5W/40.............811.4cSt...............421.4cSt.... ........14cSt
10W/50............1039cSt...............538.9cSt...... ......18cSt
15W/50.............1376cSt..............674.7cSt...... ......18cSt
20W/50.............2305cSt...............1015cSt...... ......18cSt
Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the thicker the oil. "
put this from looking at alot off post on here and think these are the best oil thickness to use. but like every one has said its a personal thing.
hope this helps and if you want me to add anything just comment
joe
Last edited by mr_joe0606; 23-11-2010 at 10:08 PM.
#2
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I agree!
PM a mod about it and change the title to something slightly more descriptive like "RST Recommended Oil's" and maybe people will see it and not start an oil thread every other day! lol
Also the second oil 10w/50 is good for whatever BHP your making over standard (150-350bhp), you would never go 15w/60 unless you only ran on track maybe... IMO of course
PM a mod about it and change the title to something slightly more descriptive like "RST Recommended Oil's" and maybe people will see it and not start an oil thread every other day! lol
Also the second oil 10w/50 is good for whatever BHP your making over standard (150-350bhp), you would never go 15w/60 unless you only ran on track maybe... IMO of course
Last edited by Karlos G; 23-11-2010 at 10:04 PM.
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#10
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
What about Castrol Magnatec 10W/40?
I always thought Castrol was some kind of "high-end" oil?
I run a 160hp S2 and never drives winter.
About 80.000 miles.
Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask
I always thought Castrol was some kind of "high-end" oil?
I run a 160hp S2 and never drives winter.
About 80.000 miles.
Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask
Last edited by Tezla82; 08-03-2011 at 03:12 PM.
#11
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The reason to use thicker oil is when you are pushing more bhp than standard the engine will get hotter quicker and stay hotter than standard. So useing standard type oil eg 10/40 it will become thinner when running but this will be very minimal up to around 200bhp on the cvh. Hope this helps
#12
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
The reason to use thicker oil is when you are pushing more bhp than standard the engine will get hotter quicker and stay hotter than standard. So useing standard type oil eg 10/40 it will become thinner when running but this will be very minimal up to around 200bhp on the cvh. Hope this helps
I should go for 10W/40?
Castrol Magnatec/Edge, Millers, Shell Helix or Mobil1?
And full-synthetic?
Opieoil recommends 5W/40 when browsing their site and choosing RS Turbo
#13
Part of the Furniture
.....not sure about the 5w40. I'd go for the 10w/50 fully synth. As above, the best you can afford.
#14
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Castrol Magnatec/Edge, Millers, Shell Helix or Mobil1?
Catrol Magnetec is part synthetic, edge is fully synthetic.. Shell Helix doesn't seem to be very popular in the UK but is (from what i've heard) a very good oil. I've never got on with Mobil1, my bmw uses castrol edge NOW, as it burnt mobile 1.
Rob,
Catrol Magnetec is part synthetic, edge is fully synthetic.. Shell Helix doesn't seem to be very popular in the UK but is (from what i've heard) a very good oil. I've never got on with Mobil1, my bmw uses castrol edge NOW, as it burnt mobile 1.
Rob,
#15
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Originally Posted by Rob_DOHC
Castrol Magnatec/Edge, Millers, Shell Helix or Mobil1?
Catrol Magnetec is part synthetic, edge is fully synthetic.. Shell Helix doesn't seem to be very popular in the UK but is (from what i've heard) a very good oil. I've never got on with Mobil1, my bmw uses castrol edge NOW, as it burnt mobile 1.
Catrol Magnetec is part synthetic, edge is fully synthetic.. Shell Helix doesn't seem to be very popular in the UK but is (from what i've heard) a very good oil. I've never got on with Mobil1, my bmw uses castrol edge NOW, as it burnt mobile 1.
Or 'any' full synth oil as long its 10/40
The end
Thanks guys!
#16
Guys i got oil last week from my local motor factor [ HELIX ULTRA 5W-40 FULLY SYNTHETIC] Then read this post along with confering with 1 or 2 EXPERTS so took it back to change it BUT they are adamant that its a 5w-40 for a standard CVH they even showed me the FORD HANDBOOK which read 5w-40 so im kinda stuck here Any COMMENTS GUYS
#18
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
I'm stuck again... Reading more posts on the net.
Now I'm looking at 10w/60 Castrol RS oil?
But 10w/60?
A post is reading: generally people use 10w60 Castrol RS on the RST's, but you can use 5w50, 10w40, 15w50 or 10w60 as long as it is fully synthetic.
Now I'm looking at 10w/60 Castrol RS oil?
But 10w/60?
A post is reading: generally people use 10w60 Castrol RS on the RST's, but you can use 5w50, 10w40, 15w50 or 10w60 as long as it is fully synthetic.
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I use generally Liqui Moly Synthoil Race Tech GT1 SAE 10W-60
5L around 40Ł is a good value. Works even -28C perfectly.
If engine is freshly builded first 10 min with mineral oil (cheap), then flushing oil, new filter and some semi synthetic for next ~1000km after that another flushing oil, new filter and LM goes in.
5L around 40Ł is a good value. Works even -28C perfectly.
If engine is freshly builded first 10 min with mineral oil (cheap), then flushing oil, new filter and some semi synthetic for next ~1000km after that another flushing oil, new filter and LM goes in.
#25
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
would 10w/60 racing Valvoline go good? i just builded the engine and i runed a few minutes with mineral oil and i had a 5L of this 10w/60 and wanted to know if it would go fine
thanks!!
thanks!!
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Thought I'd add to this. On 10/40 semi synth my RST had good oil pressure. I tried fully synth Silkolene pro S and saw a 5psi increase at idle and 8 psi at 2000rpm following the manuals recomended test conditions.
This was at 80c oil temp. I also noticed that the oil temp didnt vary so much. It stayed between 75 and 90 while idling with the fan coming on and off. The semi 10/40 was varying between 70 and 100.
I'll definately be sticking with it.
This was at 80c oil temp. I also noticed that the oil temp didnt vary so much. It stayed between 75 and 90 while idling with the fan coming on and off. The semi 10/40 was varying between 70 and 100.
I'll definately be sticking with it.
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at the moment i'm useing a 10-W40 kroon oil fully synthic, but i see a lot of you are going higher to 50 and 60.
Does the thick oil not give problems on oil flow through turbo? like 20-50 sound a bit on the high side mainly for cold on 20?
I hope somebody can answer before tomz
Does the thick oil not give problems on oil flow through turbo? like 20-50 sound a bit on the high side mainly for cold on 20?
I hope somebody can answer before tomz
Last edited by Red_bull; 05-04-2013 at 10:07 PM.
#33
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maybe a nice thing to add for the cold idle pressure in combination with the oil grade you are using
Remember that most engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is too thick to lubricate properly. It cannot flow and therefore cannot lubricate. Most of the thick oil at startup actually goes through the bypass valve back to the engine oil sump and not into your engine oil ways.
higher cold oil pressure means that the oil is too thick to flow through your engine!
I just spotted this while searching what oil to use myself
Link to more info:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
Remember that most engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is too thick to lubricate properly. It cannot flow and therefore cannot lubricate. Most of the thick oil at startup actually goes through the bypass valve back to the engine oil sump and not into your engine oil ways.
higher cold oil pressure means that the oil is too thick to flow through your engine!
I just spotted this while searching what oil to use myself
Link to more info:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
#34
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Too thick when hot unless it's a track only car.
at the moment i'm useing a 10-W40 kroon oil fully synthic, but i see a lot of you are going higher to 50 and 60.
Does the thick oil not give problems on oil flow through turbo? like 20-50 sound a bit on the high side mainly for cold on 20?
I hope somebody can answer before tomz
Does the thick oil not give problems on oil flow through turbo? like 20-50 sound a bit on the high side mainly for cold on 20?
I hope somebody can answer before tomz
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Then take the 5-w50 these are for motorbikes. In my topic about oil pressure is a link with a overload of info. Reading that you will find out that the 5-w50 will fit you too
#37
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These are what I recommend...
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68893-mo...ngine-oil.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68898-fu...ngine-oil.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68893-mo...ngine-oil.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68898-fu...ngine-oil.aspx
#38
Advanced PassionFord User
Just done an oil change on my S2 using Millers 10w-40 Full Synthetic Engine Oil from Oilmans Oppie oils website.
The oil pressure light comes on during idle, Give the engine a little rev and and light goes off. It does however come back on again shortly after, Rev it again and it goes off.
I assume its too thin/thick as its only when the engine has warmed up to running temp.
I've been told to go up a grade by my mechanic.
The engine is running 190BHP, is 10W-50 the grade I need?
The oil pressure light comes on during idle, Give the engine a little rev and and light goes off. It does however come back on again shortly after, Rev it again and it goes off.
I assume its too thin/thick as its only when the engine has warmed up to running temp.
I've been told to go up a grade by my mechanic.
The engine is running 190BHP, is 10W-50 the grade I need?
#40
Advanced PassionFord User
I've replaced the oil pick up pipe, I got a new pump to fit should the problem not cure. I've not drove the car since sept 2009. No problems before hand Its jst a case of trying this oil before considering the worn engine route.