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Old 25-10-2009, 07:44 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazycage View Post
yes thats the one i would use but you would have to look up the ratios as i dont know what they are.

or you could just use your box and make a bracket for the slave cylinder totally upto you but there is benefits in using the puma box.
My thinking is... whilst my engine and gearbox are out I my as well get a low milege Puma box with the slave built in and fit my ATB as this is the strongest box I can get cheaply, and then sell my S2 box which is fully rebuilt and done around 1k with the original ford LSD in, i'll actually end up quids in too!
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Puma linkage is a REALLY nice short throw change...
Yeah i've heard they are nice!
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Old 25-10-2009, 08:47 PM   #42
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Second thoughts......... having just seen a IB5 (Puma 1.7 to be exact) stripped, it's exactly the same as my BC box except larger bearings for the main shaft I believe.
So for the hassle of getting one and fitting my ATB diff, for very little gain I think i'll stick with my rebuilt BC box until it dies and then grab a IB5 with built in slave.
After all, I stripped teeth off my input shaft when i killed my last BC box and that is still the same!
But very good to know all these box options now i'm hydraulic!
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Old 25-10-2009, 10:26 PM   #43
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Cool conversion, MK had a hydraulic clutch on his XR2t.
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Old 26-10-2009, 08:45 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by crazycage View Post
i would use a later ib5 gear casing now and have the starter at the rear away from the deadly heat from your down pipe and it will have the slave cylinder built in .

plus they have the bigger main shaft bearings.
We're gonna have to have a chat about sticking a puma box in mine I think
There scrappy in Moretons got 3 pumas in now, i've already bought the linkages, will have to pop back and pick a box up....
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Old 26-10-2009, 06:34 PM   #45
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We're gonna have to have a chat about sticking a puma box in mine I think
There scrappy in Moretons got 3 pumas in now, i've already bought the linkages, will have to pop back and pick a box up....
were of to neps this weekend to have a tinkle on mine going to try do this a slight different way as to make it a simple bolt in conversion with a moddified pedal box instead so could be a conversion we can simply post out to people and they swap peddle box over and send old box back to us then convert for next person and so on, if all goes well i'll post some pics up for you all to see and dave if your round over weekend call by and see if you want a manifold for exhaust to, as mine will be done by then, full stainless for 250 can't grumble at that and proven to over 400bhp so far
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Old 26-10-2009, 06:37 PM   #46
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Yeah that would be cool, i'm sure there are lots of people that would go for it!
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Old 27-10-2009, 12:19 AM   #47
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what car was the slave cylinder from ?
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Old 27-10-2009, 12:36 AM   #48
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Just a word about the wilwood master cylinders - make sure you've lined up the pushrod as straight as you can. I've had 3 or 4 fail now leaving me with no clutch, which leads me to believe they are either just shit, or they are very sensitive to misalignment.

The seals look fine on all of them, but the brake fluid goes dark grey and is full of ally. Witness marks on the metal pistons must mean that they are wearing the ally bore away causing sealing issues.
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Old 27-10-2009, 09:14 AM   #49
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Quote:
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what car was the slave cylinder from ?
Dont know but i'm using a Nissan 300zx TT slave.

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Just a word about the wilwood master cylinders - make sure you've lined up the pushrod as straight as you can. I've had 3 or 4 fail now leaving me with no clutch, which leads me to believe they are either just shit, or they are very sensitive to misalignment.

The seals look fine on all of them, but the brake fluid goes dark grey and is full of ally. Witness marks on the metal pistons must mean that they are wearing the ally bore away causing sealing issues.
Makes sense mate cheers, I think mine is pretty much spot on straight so hopefully wil be ok.
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Old 27-10-2009, 09:28 PM   #50
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Karlos, can't you request a sticky for this one?!
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Old 01-11-2009, 08:55 AM   #51
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you cant fit ANY rear starter box to a cvh.
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Old 01-11-2009, 11:30 AM   #52
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Why's that Gary? I had a late MK5 escort IB5 box with a cable clutch, rear starter and bar shift and I did end up using it on a full zetec but can't remember any problems when I tested it on a CVH.
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:45 PM   #53
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the standard oil cooler is there we tried yesterday and today we tried a late ka box with front starter which fits but twists the engine so it looks like a focus rally car at an angle so this week were going to try the method in karlos's sixth pic at top of thread
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Old 01-11-2009, 08:25 PM   #54
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the standard oil cooler is there we tried yesterday and today we tried a late ka box with front starter which fits but twists the engine so it looks like a focus rally car at an angle so this week were going to try the method in karlos's sixth pic at top of thread
not try mate DO... i done the one in his pic lol.
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Old 02-11-2009, 03:04 AM   #55
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not try mate DO... i done the one in his pic lol.
Nice mod! If you dont mind me asking, how did you modify the release arm? Lee

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Old 11-03-2010, 07:14 PM   #56
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First post updated with pics of slave fitted!
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:57 PM   #57
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Quote:
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Why's that Gary? I had a late MK5 escort IB5 box with a cable clutch, rear starter and bar shift and I did end up using it on a full zetec but can't remember any problems when I tested it on a CVH.
sadly the cvh is different to the zetec engine, the oil filter is in a different place, on the cvh the starter would hit the filter, on a zetec the filter is over on the pulley side of the engine.
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Old 12-03-2010, 01:15 PM   #58
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After reading your initial post I specced up fitting the system but I found this slave cylinder:



It's off a hyundai. I thought it would look more OEM when fitted as you can just trim down the clutch arm and fit it on a pivot pin over the arm. Just an idea for others!

Quality post though mate!

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Old 12-03-2010, 01:33 PM   #59
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sadly the cvh is different to the zetec engine, the oil filter is in a different place, on the cvh the starter would hit the filter, on a zetec the filter is over on the pulley side of the engine.

I realised that pretty quickly when I thought about it after I posted lol

Very interested in this conversion. If the pedal servo holds up ok I'll be doing this to the RST for sure.
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Old 23-03-2010, 07:38 PM   #60
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Just a final update!
Using a 0.75 MC with the Honda Prelude SC pictured it is way too heavy, I have dropped back to a 0.625 MC and is lighter now, although still heavy compared to other clutches but the AP Racing CP2000-35 is a very very heavy clutch in the first place!
I'm guessing a smaller slave cylinder would also lighten things up a bit too!

So if anyone needs a MC 0.75 thats done 35miles PM me.... Ł30 posted, was Ł50 from RD.
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Old 23-03-2010, 07:42 PM   #61
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bigger slave cyinder....

Depends if you have enough travel too.
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Old 23-03-2010, 08:31 PM   #62
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Oh ok! Cheers Rick!
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Old 15-04-2010, 08:58 AM   #63
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Quote:
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bigger slave cyinder....

Depends if you have enough travel too.
whats size mc did u use rick?


you need a left leg like arny to push mine down
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Old 15-04-2010, 05:25 PM   #64
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He used 0.75 mate which is what I used to start with but it was way too heavy, so dropped to a 0.625 which is better but still heavy!
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Old 15-04-2010, 06:36 PM   #65
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Quote:
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He used 0.75 mate which is what I used to start with but it was way too heavy, so dropped to a 0.625 which is better but still heavy!
ricks is a .625 and its not heavy .mine is a .75 and thats not heavy feels like a standard focus . if your at the pod at the weekend pop over and have a go.
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Old 15-04-2010, 06:49 PM   #66
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Oh ok!
I think I might need a bigger slave as Rick says, or when I fit it to my new gearbox i'll move it further down the arm for more leaverage!
Only way i'll be getting to the pod this weekend is if I walk!!
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Old 18-04-2010, 03:40 PM   #67
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Whilst I was fitting my trusty XR3i gearbox today I took the opportunity to move the SC right to the end of the clutch release arm for some more leverage as it was still quite heavy, and now it's incredibley light!! I actually thought something was wrong when I first pressed the pedal and got out to check the pipe was still connected!! lol

Those extra couple of inches make all the difference



If you want to see where it was before check the first post.
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Old 18-04-2010, 04:37 PM   #68
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Would different size brake pipe make a difference I'm using standard small stuff on mine yours looks a bit bigger
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Old 18-04-2010, 07:19 PM   #69
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No mate mine is standard size.
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Old 18-04-2010, 08:18 PM   #70
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Karlos, can you not find a pull type slave cylinder and mount it where the cable would come through?? Would be much better instead of it dangling out in space.

Like this - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wilwo...Q5fAccessories


You might have to search for one the right bore size though, to go with the master.
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Old 18-04-2010, 08:42 PM   #71
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Yes I could, but i've seen one fitted and it looked shit and takes up loads more space! lol
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Old 28-10-2010, 01:10 PM   #72
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[quote=Karlos G;4474518]
Big hole in bulkhead...



what did you use to drill this hole mate? what size drillbit/hole cutter etc?
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Old 28-10-2010, 01:17 PM   #73
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You'll need a proper hole cutter, just buy a cheap set from Wickes.
One thing I will say though is I don't think it's possible to drill the hole the same size as the master cylinder (so it fits perfectly with no excess area around the cylinder) and have it perfectly lined up in one go. I measured and measured mine and connecting it all up it's not quite 100% square. It's not far out, but just off. So, I will be making the hole slightly bigger so thats centered then make a mounting plate up to so on the bulkhead I think. I really don't want my cylinder failing due to slight misalignment.
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Old 28-10-2010, 01:19 PM   #74
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so just some metal hole cutters then ? so its better to take my time to get the hole as perfect in line as poss.
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Old 28-10-2010, 01:21 PM   #75
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muz....

that maifold you have from crazycage, and are you using a T34.48 ? i have just got a manifold from gary (crazycage) do you just rotate the compressor housing on the turbo to line it up? also what did you do for the actuator bracket?
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Old 28-10-2010, 03:01 PM   #76
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so just some metal hole cutters then ? so its better to take my time to get the hole as perfect in line as poss.
I made a cardboard template of the cylinder and calculated where the centre hole needed to be in relation to the pivot of the pedal, but I'm not 100% happy with its positioning. I'm going to make a small plate out of 2mm steel about 7cm x 7cm thats I can position properly them bolt to the bulkhead.

Yes, I'm using a T34 .48 Cossie housing. With the manifold, I've spun the core and housing around. The alternator bracket will have to be fabricated. I haven't done this yet. I do have a standard mount which I'm going to see if I can modify. If not, I'll make one from scratch.
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Old 28-10-2010, 05:25 PM   #77
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cheers for that info mate !
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Old 28-10-2010, 05:47 PM   #78
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[quote=s1cab;5156755]
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Big hole in bulkhead...



what did you use to drill this hole mate? what size drillbit/hole cutter etc?
I just used the biggest tapered drill bit I could get and then a dremel to open it out the rest of the way, sits perfectly centered behind the clutch pedal when looking up from underneath.
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Old 28-10-2010, 09:40 PM   #79
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for a 2.1 zvh with say 250 to 300 hp is the focus rs box the best to go for. what flywheel do you use and would i need to cut the chassis leg on my s2. what driveshafts are the best to use.
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Old 28-10-2010, 09:42 PM   #80
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sorry for spammin your post karlos just readin about gearboxs and clutchs got me thinkin bout what i need
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Old 28-10-2010, 09:42 PM
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