For those interested in MegaSquirt EFI...

[rich123]

hay there ive just fitted a m/s v3 to mine and i had problems with it overfueling at the mo ive had to put smaller injectors back in adn i got rid of my idle valve and runs sweet now,but now im in the process of trying to get my bhp to around 400 mark so need to sort out with the bigger injectors going to be a mission i bet

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[Antti O]

I have 380cc ev-6 type bosch injectors in 1600cvh and no any overfueling problems ever.
ms 1 v2.2 board with extra 10g hires

[Karlos G]

Originally Posted by rich123

hay there ive just fitted a m/s v3 to mine and i had problems with it overfueling at the mo ive had to put smaller injectors back in adn i got rid of my idle valve and runs sweet now,but now im in the process of trying to get my bhp to around 400 mark so need to sort out with the bigger injectors going to be a mission i bet

Easy mate!
If it's overfuelling check your required fuel is correct and then adjust your map as needed.
I run 480cc injectors and have no trouble getting it to idle (common prob with larger injectors so I hear), or fuel correctly.
Whats your spec for a target of 400bhp?

[Tondeur]

nice work karlos any pics of completion

can i asks whats act`s

tony

[Karlos G]

I'll take some pics tomorrow for ya, ACT's @ 20psi were about 38 degrees!
Or do you mean what is ACT? Air Charge Temperature.

[Tondeur]

i meant what was the obreviation
thanks for that was confusing me a bit
be good to see it i was thinking about doing it to my xr2t but think 226 bhp is enough good little toy thinking of doing bigger things with a 3dr instead

what intercooler you running out of interest i was told by PE years ago to go for a charge cooler as they handle the pressure better so i did and running 1.3 bar happily i did have an ammal valve problem for a while and was running 1.7bar! that was good fun lol

Tony
pics would be good mate

[xr2wishy]

Originally Posted by Tondeur

i meant what was the obreviation
thanks for that was confusing me a bit
be good to see it i was thinking about doing it to my xr2t but think 226 bhp is enough good little toy thinking of doing bigger things with a 3dr instead

what intercooler you running out of interest i was told by PE years ago to go for a charge cooler as they handle the pressure better so i did and running 1.3 bar happily i did have an ammal valve problem for a while and was running 1.7bar! that was good fun lol

Tony
pics would be good mate

i'm planning for the high 200's towards 300bhp in my xr2t.
the thing about injectors is that bigger ones are worse for idling, but the type makes a big difference, disc ones are better for big power up the revs, but pintle ones mist better so are better low down the revs.
i have a rubbish idle from 850-900 fluctuates up and down, not the worst i've seen though, there is supposed to be a mod to the throttle butterfly that ford did as a recall on the efi setups due to hunting on the idle.
yes charge coolers are better as the boost pipes are shorter and therefore less lag, although you have to fit a pump and extra coolant hoses and a rad for the system

instead.

[Karlos G]

lol! Got ya!
I'm running a Radtec full front mount IC.

xr2wishy what size injectors are you running? My 480cc VXR injectors will fuel for over 300bhp easily and I have a really nice stable idle.

EDIT: VXR injectors will only fuel for around 230bhp!

[xr2wishy]

Originally Posted by Karlos G

lol! Got ya!
I'm running a Radtec full front mount IC.

xr2wishy what size injectors are you running? My 480cc VXR injectors will fuel for over 300bhp easily and I have a really nice stable idle.

i'm using 440cc ones, disc type where the disc is further up the injector than pintle ones, makes then faster responding to fuel pressure changes.
my idle isn't terrible and the map needs ironing out a little to make it better.
do you have a hole in the middle of your throttle butterfly?
should only be a couple off mm.
also my idle valve is noisey as, just the efi remote mount one, i'm guessing it could be faulty or a bad earth feeding back a little.

[JesseT]

A noisy idle valve usually means that it's driven with too low a frequency.

To get a better idle and fuel economy with big injectors, you can always try uploading the new sequential firmware, if you already have a MS-II. Needs a small additional PCB for it that goes for 18$ + components.

[Karlos G]

Originally Posted by xr2wishy

i'm using 440cc ones, disc type where the disc is further up the injector than pintle ones, makes then faster responding to fuel pressure changes.
my idle isn't terrible and the map needs ironing out a little to make it better.
do you have a hole in the middle of your throttle butterfly?
should only be a couple off mm.
also my idle valve is noisey as, just the efi remote mount one, i'm guessing it could be faulty or a bad earth feeding back a little.

Yeah could be mate, i'm not running a ICV yet as i'm still using my MFI charge carier pipe and doesnt have the ICV hose take off.
I cant say I noticed a hole in the butterfly but i'm not 100% sure?!

[Tondeur]

yeah what he said lol

my trouble is i`ve been out the game so long i have`nt got a clue what most of you are talking about most of the time

im keeping the xr forever so you never know i might come back to it in later years

Tony

[xr2wishy]

Originally Posted by JesseT

A noisy idle valve usually means that it's driven with too low a frequency.

To get a better idle and fuel economy with big injectors, you can always try uploading the new sequential firmware, if you already have a MS-II. Needs a small additional PCB for it that goes for 18$ + components.

yeah, i changed the frequency to 156Hz and the problem went away, i was told that the ford ISCVs like lower freuency, i guess not though.

[Karlos G]

Originally Posted by Tondeur

nice work karlos any pics of completion

tony

Here you go....



Looks like most other EFI engine bays..... If your looking for the ECU it is behind the dash inside the car.

[xr2wishy]

i actually turned a bit of exhaust pipe into a crossover pipe, just needs mounting fins adding and it'll do then:



granted this is an an xr2, but the principle is the same.

[Karlos G]

lol!
Good idea!

[Tondeur]

some very nice work there guys
that EFI inlet repulses me for some reason nice to see your erst charge carrier though karlos

and xr2wishy that exhaust pipe looks almost factory
what mastercylinder/reseviour you got on there?

be interested in what performance increases you get from the mod alone

also how much clearence have you got between your rad and actuator mate i need to increase the gap on mine

shes currentley in the body shop having some rear end work done ready for national day then im going to strip and rebuild with a few minor mods

Tony

cheers for the piccies guys

[Tondeur]

out of interest what act meters you using and what readings do you aim for?

Tony

[xr2wishy]

Originally Posted by Tondeur

some very nice work there guys
that EFI inlet repulses me for some reason nice to see your erst charge carrier though karlos

and xr2wishy that exhaust pipe looks almost factory
what mastercylinder/reseviour you got on there?

be interested in what performance increases you get from the mod alone

also how much clearence have you got between your rad and actuator mate i need to increase the gap on mine

shes currentley in the body shop having some rear end work done ready for national day then im going to strip and rebuild with a few minor mods

Tony

cheers for the piccies guys

there's a few questions:
mondeo servo/master cylinder with modded xr2 servo brackets.
clearance between rad and turbo is about 15mm for now, using a 0.48 cossie housing, on a 0.36 erst housing i had about an inch of clearance, i moved the rad into the channel at the front and made lower brackets on crossmember and made new mounts welded to top of rad to bolt to slam panel.
also had to make a one off actuator bracket too, as the cossie one needs to be totally different to the erst one otherwise it'll eat the rad.
act meter is one from R&B motorsport cost about Ł50 delivered IIRC.

i only did the exhaust pipe bit as i had it sat around and needed to mock something up, but worked so well i decided to weld the take offs onto it for the ISCV and 1/8bsp for the act meter.

link to my build: http://xrtwo.speedcentral.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=41968

[Tondeur]

nice cheers mate

Tony

[DazC]

if you're not using the mfi air temp sensor then you can use that to feed an idle valve. Unscrew the sensor and fit a pipe fitting removed from the back of a standard manifold. The water pipe fitting from the back of the manifold screws straight in.

[Karlos G]

Thats a very handy tip! Cheers!

[Mr.T]

@karlos

Do you have a pic of the trigger kit fitted? Doing a ms conversion myself and didnt bother to drill a hole.

[Karlos G]

I can take one for you, wont be today though.
Forgot to drill a hole for what mate?

[crazycage]

Originally Posted by Karlos G

I can take one for you, wont be today though.
Forgot to drill a hole for what mate?

cps i would say.

[Mr.T]

Originally Posted by crazycage

cps i would say.

indeed. CPS.

[Karlos G]

lol yeah thats what i thought.

[Antti O]

What is progress now?

[Mr.T]

Is there any? Plus did you managed to get a pic of the cps setup?

[Karlos G]

Originally Posted by Antti O

What is progress now?

Waiting for my new trigger wheel to be fitted and balanced to my spare pulley.
Then mapping can continue

Originally Posted by Mr.T

Is there any? Plus did you managed to get a pic of the cps setup?

Shit sorry have not done it yet mate!
Although There is a photo of the trigger wheel fitted to my pulley, and the CPS bracket at the start of this thread, other than that it's just one of these CPS's...

[xr2wishy]

bit of help here chaps planning to use megasquirt, forget the diode trick, i tired and it was all over the place, perhaps the zener diode wasn't perfect, but in the end i just altered the rev counter in the clocks.
what you need to do is feed the rev counter off one side of the coil and then open up the dials and there is an adjustment screw under the rev counter unit, just watch megatune and hold 3k rpm and adjust the potentiometer so the rev counter reads the same.
hey presto, job done, i did this on my xr2, but should work the same on an escort or any ford dial from similar period in time.

[Karlos G]

Handy to know!
Cant say i've noticed any adjuster screw but i'll look next time my clocks are out!

[Mr.T]

. never mind. Ive seen it

[JesseT]

If I remember correctly, most Ford clocks dont allow enough detuning to make it read right. All have the adjustment screw though.

Another trick that always works is to set an output pin from the MS as tach out. Then connect it to drive a small inductor (e.g. coil from a relay). Then couple this signal to the tacho.

[xr2wishy]

Originally Posted by JesseT

If I remember correctly, most Ford clocks dont allow enough detuning to make it read right. All have the adjustment screw though.

Another trick that always works is to set an output pin from the MS as tach out. Then connect it to drive a small inductor (e.g. coil from a relay). Then couple this signal to the tacho.

perhaps, but mine reads right from idle to at least 4k compared with megatune, so i suspect it'll be correct further up the revs, but i didn't want to keep holding high revs.

[Red_bull]

I'm planning on building a CVH EFI for my track toy

I allready got a CVH EFI and bought a inlet of a fiesta, but i still need the wiring can i buy it from a normal CVH EFI or am i missing to much then?

I know i need other pistons, because std EFI pistons are diff. Atleast that's what they told me. Have to find out when i take the engine apart
Also i would like to run iginition cut, so i can't run a EDIS system. Do you need crankposition signal and campositionsignal or is crankposition enough? Because that's allready on the EFI engine i bought.

I will have to go through all the megasquirt info, because i'm not totally up to date with it!

If i have more questions i will post them here and don't make new threads haha

[Karlos G]

When you buy your MS ECU it will come with a loom so you do not need any of the original EFI loom just some of the connectors, CPS is all you need, also you can lose the EDIS and just use a zetec coil pack instead, much easier!

Everyhthing you need is on page 1 of this thread including diagrams for the inlet manifold multiplug loom, and your coolant and air temp sensor settings!

[xr2wishy]

pretty much as above, i'd get the as much engine loom from a cvh efi engine as you can, all the bits save time, like the injector rail harness and cps plug and shieled wire.
just join them up to the MS connector/wires from the plug with solder and heatshrink tubing.
pretty easy to do.

[Alex_86]

can i get the map please?

[Karlos G]

What map fella?