Simbo

Right guys,

Small turbo escort, wont start the engine cranks over but wont start, iv checked the fuel pump relay switched it with another one and its still the same, im getting no fuel pressure at the fuel filter, which leads me to the fuel pump, is there anyway of testing the fuel pump without taking the tank out??

could this be an alarm/immobilisor fault?? or more likely to be the pump

cheers

J

ESCYSCOTT

iTrader: (1)

the connector for the fuel pump is located behind the back bumper, check this to see that there is voltage to the pump.....

sounds to me like the old "escort fusebox syndrome!!"

exactly the same thing happened to mine 2 years ago...tried everything but it was the fusebox in the end, quite expensive but a piece of piss to change.

Simbo

cheers m8, I'll check that tonight

july1

iTrader: (1)

You have to check the voltage with the pump still plugged. If it's the fuse box (Happened to me too) the voltage drop only if the system is loaded, I mean if you unplug the pump, fit the voltmeter and switch on you may have 12v, but with the pump plugged you will loose it!
This is because the welding of the fuel pump relay in the fuse box is getting poor.

You don't need to replace the box but simply to remove it, dismantle it and re-weld all contact with power (fuel pump, abs, headlights...)

Dave Henshall

maybe obvious, is the fuse for the pump ok, if you pull the fuse out, have you got 12v on one side of it to earth..?

Simbo

The fuses are fine mate,

do i need to take the back bumper off to get at the connector for the fuel pump??

july1

iTrader: (1)

No you can manage to reach him bumper in place.

Damo V

If you can reach the plug with bumper in place it will be VERY VERY difficult IMO

Just take the bumper off mate...

Turbo Chris

I had a very similar problem last month with mine

I tried everything,in the end

I found it to be a broken wire going from the fuel cut off switch in the passenger footwell

Chris.

Cozzie Bhoy

If its the pump it would go gradualy. Bad starting, slugish at high revs..Noisy. probably fuel pump relay. Don't know why those fookin designers at fords didn't put a panel in the boot for takin out the fuel pump. What a fookin dose. had to use the lump hammer to drop the tank, had to order new straps.. Car on blocks now for nearly a week

THE RADMAN

iTrader: (2)

i think ford only do one strap now,i couldnt get either when i wanted some,and gave up waiting,if all fails a&s autos do shiney ones Ł50

Simbo

ok boys

update

so far Scotts theory is looking the most likely, ran a wire straight from the battery to the pump yesterday, the pump ran, but on one half of the connector im not getting 12 volts, been told this is right, you only get 12 v when its plugged in and the pumps running.

fuel innertia switch is still depressed half way down, is this as it should be??

relays seem fine

fuses are fine

not immobilisor

so we're back at the fusebox, how much are they now? is there anyway of checking the fusebox to make sure it is the actual problem??

cheers

J

THE RADMAN

iTrader: (2)

take the fusebox out and check the soldered joints on the fuel pump relay connections,one of mine had cracked,my mate is an auto electrician and soldered all the suspect joints on my board, the ignition one had started to melt and bubble as well,no point in forking out for a new one for a couple hours work

july1

iTrader: (1)

As I already said many times it's quite easy to fix the fuse box you 'simply' have to remove it (what you'll have to anyway) dismantle it, reweld all connections with power such as fuel pump, abs, headlights... put so varnish on it and put it back on car.
The problem comes from the poor welding!

If you buy a new one (quite expensive by the way) you'll have the same problem in the next 5-10 years.

The inertia switch is just a switch!! so to make sure the problem doesn’t come from him simply bypass it with a piece of wire!

But I'm pretty sure it's the fuse box as it's a well-known source of trouble