chrisreid

iTrader: (2)

I am looking for a b&m shifter for my 4x4 cosworth and cant seem to find 1 anywhere. i tryed woodford garage etc etc etc and no1 can get me 1. any idears

s3th

gearbox man has got 1 left last time i was on the phone to them they want 230 for it

PewteRS

iTrader: (2)

I thought they are nothing but trouble on the 4x4 ???

bigpower

Speak to mr Rainbird, he does one thats 4x4 friendly

Ive got one and the box feels so much better



Short shift for Cosworth 4x4 MT75. Replaces standard unit and made of good quality steel, with shortened throw, but not as much as B&M (to protect syncros) + delivery.

Price: Ł35.00
Size N/A
Colour Plain alloy

^^^^^^ From his site!!


Links

KSA-Cossie

iTrader: (4)

I heard that too.

PewteRS

iTrader: (2)

Is it a "gearbox out job" to fit Karl ?

JHS

iTrader: (1)

I've got a B&M one, works fine...

bigpower

Not sure mate...DOnt think so, but mine was done while engine and box were out!

dan le moignan

also wondered if it was a box out job? that was the main thing i could not believe when i first drove myne, gear shift is nice a positive but the throw between gears is massive! like casting a fishing rod

lowman

i have a b&m one..and it has been nothing but shit...
it rattles...makes noises..i know you are supposed to accept noise in a cossi...but this one is fuckin annoying.rattles...the locking ring that holds the gear lever up in position...loosens all the time.and it gets sloppy..and then you have to refit the lockin ring again..and again...and that wears out..and youhave to find a way to fit a new one..that fits better...and ...
but its nice to look at though
i didnt think it made an enormous difference to the shifting either..it did make a difference..but it was a minor one.

steviecossie

ive got a b&m one my bt model and really like it

MONSTER

I've no problems with my B&M shifter either, apart from it rattles its arse off over 100mph

Bullett

iTrader: (2)

i like the way cars drive with a short shift,but....and this is why i dont have one on the saff yet,i hate aftermarket gearknobs.why cant they do it so you can use the original knob

JHS

iTrader: (1)

Glue it on...

Bullett

iTrader: (2)

yeah thanks

RWD_cossie_wil

iTrader: (9)

B&M are shite, just syncro destroyers And they are rattly peices of shite ,and vastly over-priced. I would go for the R&B one, 1/8th of the price and works well, and you can keep your old gearknob

Bullett

iTrader: (2)

ah ha! now why havent i found that out yet! looks like a call to mr r then!

dan le moignan

is Mikes one an in situ job or box out?

RWD_cossie_wil

iTrader: (9)

you have to take the whole cage type bracket off the selector, I don't know if you can get it off in situ? Also might be worth poly bushing the cage when its off, matt lewis can supply those

redrsmk5

You can use the original knob....i have with mine

Gatecrasher

I have the R&B one and its pukka the B&M vibrate i have heard cant say much more about them as i have never used one but the one from Mike is spot on whitch i use in my mullet box cheap too

Franco

iTrader: (2)

Didnt realise you had a mullet box Ben!

I have a R&B short throw adaptor which will be fitted to my DPE box, will also be fitting the gearbox cradle solid bush mounts from Reyland

Gatecrasher

Do you ever read any of my posts on my restro thread / problem threads?

I had the box put in when martin had the car and its been out twice since once for new syincro rings and taller 5th and 2 days ago i had to have it out as the cradel had come loose on the top

Franco

iTrader: (2)

No i dont...........Obviously!

Gatecrasher

Obviously!

KSA-Cossie

iTrader: (4)

Did it come with full instructions m8 ?

Gatecrasher

If the gearbox cradel has to come off then the box has to come out while the box is out helicoil the threads or what happend to me at Donno could happen to you and then it will be yet another gearbox out job for the sake of another 15 mins work whuke you have the box out

Franco

iTrader: (2)

http://reyland.co.uk/Details.asp?ProductID=112

Gatecrasher

mk tom

hi,could somebody give me mike rainbirds number or email, as i would like to buy one, thanks tom. also can somebody tell me if i can still use my monte gearknob

Gatecrasher

http://randbmotorsport.co.uk/

01508 557 822

07771 912 291

mk tom

thanks gatecrasher

Gatecrasher

NP

Franco

iTrader: (2)

Yes you can! The item R & B sells replaces the lower knuckle of the gearstick

dojj

iTrader: (3)

if you do a search (if it works) i posted a how to of changing the bit mike sells

with pics and everything

easier to get the box out but seing as you need to drop the rear of the box to gain access to the bits you need to change and the box out is not as much hassle as laying on the floor trying to find bolt holes that are there

besides, it's about a 15 minute job with the box out but about 3 hours with the box in situ

Franco

iTrader: (2)

Dojj, stick up a link! (the search is flappin useless!!).


Also I couldnt change mine as of yet as the knuckle seems to have been welded in! (and theres no split pin holding it in place ).

Mad Matt

iTrader: (2)

A mate just installed a quickshift in his saph, here are some pics :

BEFORE :


AFTER :


And it is not as hard on the gearbox as the B&M short shifter, cost less money, well basically you would only need then powerflex bushes with it and you will have a nice smooth quick and fast gear changes.

dojj

iTrader: (3)

Yeti Racing

hang on then

dojj

iTrader: (3)

in amongst them are plenty of pics of what you need to do and what you should be looking for and how to take it apart

but i'll do a write up as long as you lot figure out what to do with the pictures

dojj

iTrader: (3)

the little dinkly is what you need to change, but it's just the lever point/fulcrum/moment, what ever you phu=ysics types want to describe it as that has moved further down the shaft, efectivly shortening the trhow by not giving you as much leverage non the selector

it's also very very easy to beat the syncro's with this but it does make for a much better change

right then, assuming you've removed the box you'll have to have removed the top of the stick as well, the poll pin that holds it in place is not the same roll pin that holds the reverse gear lock out so you need to tpa that out out and not the ohterh one
you can then remove the stick
this may require some "persuasion" but it will eventually come off
then the box comes out
then you undo the 4 bolts that hold the crable into place
don't mix them up as they are different lengths and you might strip the threads out of the ali casing if you put the wrong ones in the wrong holes
youwill see a pin thats split, that's the pin that holds the other end of the selector rod to the gearbox
there are 2 of them on a small collar which allows enough movement to not bind up, sort of like the cv in a propshaft which allows for different changes in angles rather than the cv in a driveshaft which allows for more accute angle variations
with this removed you will now be left with the bare cradle
youcan now remove the rubber cover that sits underneath and undo the nut'bolt/shaft assembly
there is a locking tab and you also need to make sure that when you assemble it it goes back in the same way as there is a very slight variation in top and bottom so mark it up before you strip it down
you can now remove the circlip from the top of the cradle, it's difficult to spot but with enough wd40 to clean the area you'l be able to distinguish it from the rest of the cradle
the plastci bush that it all resides in will no pop out from underneath, so you need to push it out from underneath, towards the top
it may be stiff so a hammer may come in usefull here
you will now have the plastic bush/collar with the little nugget of metal that you are going to change
it only comes out one way so remove it that way, i used a big socket and a vice to apply even pressure, remember that it's plastic and might break, and that means you are going to be well and truely fucked because you won't be able to pop out to halfords and get one in a hurry
you can now grease up your new stub and slide it back in again
pop it back into the cradle and afix with the circlip
reassemble the lower portion of the selector
BUT REMEMBER THE FOLLOWING:
the tighter you do this nut up, the stiffer the selector will feel, but it will also wear out the metal so youwill feel more and more slop in the selector
the little bobbin will have a plastic sleve to stop you from over tightening it but just make sure you trial fit it to the box and see what the throw is like before you fix it properly
replace the grime cover and refit the cradle to the box, remembering to loctite the bolts as they go in, they have been known to rattle free and then you have no selector at all bcause the plane of movement is too great to allow proper engagement of the selector
refit it all back up to the car and then marvel at how you lived your life without one of these wonderous bits of kit